Amorepacific – Korean Beauty Company Going Global

AmorePacific - Korean Beauty Company Going Global - Martin Roll

Amorepacific is a global Korean beauty company with a brand portfolio competing on innovation, quality, marketing and authentic Korean cool. This article illustrates the global business and brand marketing strategy of Amorepacific, the rebalancing of the company from China towards the US, Europe and Japan, the competition from global beauty groups and a new generation of Korean brands, and the family business and succession questions facing the founding Suh family.

Few companies illustrate the rewards and the risks of going global as clearly as Amorepacific. In 2016, the group reported record sales of USD 5.8 billion and entered the top ten of the world’s beauty companies. The following years brought a sharp reversal as its China business declined. By 2025, sales had recovered to USD 3.25 billion, and the Americas had overtaken Greater China in annual sales. The Amorepacific of 2026 is a smaller, more balanced and more global company than the one that peaked a decade earlier.

Background of Amorepacific

Established in 1945, Amorepacific Corporation is South Korea’s largest beauty & health company with more than 30 brands of skin care, makeup, derma care, hair care, oral care and body care products. The brand portfolio also includes green tea. It started out as a small family business selling hair oil made from camellia seeds in 1932.

Amorepacific accounts for roughly half of the beauty market in South Korea. In 2017, it became the first South Korean company to be 7th in the top 10 beauty companies in the world by Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), based on its 2016 sales. Its forays into global markets are nevertheless rather recent. While its premium Laneige brand, for example, debuted in 1994, it only became available outside of Korea in 2002. With a mature and intensely competitive home market, Amorepacific knows that its future success depends on becoming a truly global brand company.

Amorepacific aimed to become Asia’s number one beauty company and one of the world’s top five beauty companies by 2020. The company aimed to generate USD 12 billion in sales by 2020 with 51 percent coming from global markets. The target was missed by a wide margin. Group sales peaked in 2016 and then declined as the China business weakened. A vision built on one dominant growth market carries considerable risk.

At its 80th anniversary in September 2025, Amorepacific presented a new vision under the slogan “Create New Beauty”. The group aims for sales of approximately USD 10.5 billion by 2035 with 70 percent coming from overseas markets, and a position among the top three global beauty companies in premium skincare. The vision rests on five strategic pillars: focus on key global markets (Everyone Global), an integrated beauty and wellness portfolio (Holistic), anti-ageing solutions based on biotechnology (Ageless), agile organisational innovation (AMORE Spark), and a transition to AI-driven operations (AI First).

In 2013, Amorepacific ranked as the world’s 17th biggest cosmetics company in terms of global sales. L’Oréal was number one, followed by Unilever and Procter & Gamble. Amorepacific was at the time the third-largest cosmetics company in Asia behind Japanese companies Shiseido and Kao.

In the 2025 edition of the WWD Beauty Inc Top 100, published in April 2026, Amorepacific ranked 17th, the same position as in 2013. L’Oréal remains number one, around fifteen times the size of Amorepacific.

Since 2017, the company has closed a large number of its own stores, especially in China, and moved towards multi-brand retailers and e-commerce. It has also opened its global headquarters in Yongsan-gu, Seoul, designed by the British architect David Chipperfield, on the site where the business has been based since 1956. Suh Kyung-bae, the chairman and chief executive of Amorepacific, visited each of the shortlisted architects in Europe himself before choosing Chipperfield. He described the building to Monocle as “a machine for creativity”: open floors in place of the executive corner offices that dominate Korean corporate culture, a roof garden, and a parliament-style debate room where staff are encouraged to challenge one another’s ideas.

Amorepacific is headed by Suh Kyung-bae who succeeded in 1997 from his father and founder Suh Sung-whan. As the youngest son, he grew up watching his grandmother and father developing cosmetics products. Suh Kyung-bae uses all of the company’s products himself, with one exception: mascara. He is the chairman and CEO of the company, and works alongside the professional CEO of Amorepacific Corporation, Kim Seung-hwan. The role of the Suh family is described in more detail later in this article.

Key milestones in the history of Amorepacific

  • 1932: Yun Dok-jeong, the grandmother of the present chairman, establishes the cosmetics shop Changseong Store in Kaesong, where she sells camellia hair oil
  • 1945: Her son Suh Sung-whan founds Pacific Chemical Industries, the predecessor of Amorepacific
  • 1954: The company opens the first cosmetics research lab in Korea
  • 1964: Door-to-door sales are introduced, and the first products are exported
  • 1994 and 1997: Laneige and Sulwhasoo are launched
  • 1997: Suh Kyung-bae becomes CEO at the age of 34
  • 2002: The company is renamed Amorepacific, and Laneige opens in Hong Kong as its first market outside Korea
  • 2006: The holding company structure is established
  • 2016: Sales reach their record level. The following year, the group is ranked 7th among the beauty companies of the world
  • 2021 to 2023: COSRX is acquired in two steps, and Tata Harper in 2022
  • 2024: The Americas pass Greater China in annual sales for the first time
  • 2025: Amorepacific celebrates its 80th anniversary and presents its vision for 2035

Amorepacific brand portfolio

Today, Amorepacific’s brand portfolio ranges from traditional Korean herbal cosmetics to cutting edge biotechnology cosmetics spanning from high-end luxury, to premium and mass-market categories. International success and image rested for many years on its five global champion brands, Laneige, Sulwhasoo, Mamonde, Innisfree and Etude House (since renamed Etude). By 2025, the international growth was driven by Laneige, Sulwhasoo, Innisfree, the acquired brand COSRX and a group of derma and skincare brands such as Aestura, Illiyoon, Hera and Hanyul.

While Laneige – whose name means “snow” in French – is positioned as a much more Western skin cream, Sulwhasoo’s herbal products cater to the demands of ultra-premium consumers in Asia which combine traditional herbal treatments with advanced technology. Mamonde focuses on extracting nutrition out of nature’s flowers and condensing it into creams and serums to enhance beauty, while the Innisfree philosophy is that of extracting the goodness of Jeju Island’s gifts including green tea, orchid, camellia and volcanic cluster. Etude House has a fun and playful vibe that is targeted at young trendy women. It is part of Amorepacific’s brand portfolio strategy for each brand to have its own distinctive identity and target consumer group, thus offering a ‘singular’ brand experience.

The group’s own brand page lists 31 brands across eight categories, from cosmetics to tea. Seen through the strategy, the portfolio sorts into tiers, and each brand has a defined role:

  • Luxury: Sulwhasoo (heritage herbal skincare built on ginseng, the flagship abroad), Hera (luxury makeup and skincare with a Seoul identity) and AP Beauty (the high-efficacy skincare line relaunched in 2024 under the company’s initials)
  • Premium skincare and makeup: Laneige (the brand that travels furthest), Iope (functional skincare and the inventor of the cushion compact), Mamonde (flowers), Hanyul (Korean herbal ingredients), Primera (botanical skincare) and Espoir (makeup)
  • Accessible brands for younger consumers: Innisfree (Jeju Island naturals) and Etude (playful colour makeup)
  • Derma and sensitive skin: Aestura (the leading derma brand in Korea), Illiyoon (ceramide care for sensitive skin) and Holitual (skin wellness)
  • Acquired brands: COSRX (functional skincare, more than 90 percent of sales outside Korea) and Tata Harper (American natural luxury skincare)
  • Men: Odyssey (skincare) and Be Ready (makeup)
  • Hair care: Ryo (herbal hair loss care), Mise-en-Scène (styling and repair), Labo-H (scalp care), Ayunche and Amos Professional (salon care) and Longtake (sustainable hair and body care)
  • Body and oral care: Happy Bath and Skin U; Median and Gentist
  • Inner beauty and wellness: Vital Beautie (supplements) and the tea brand Osulloc
  • Beauty devices: makeON

The portfolio has been pruned and rebuilt since this article was first published. The rights to the French fragrance brand Goutal, acquired in 2011, were sold to Interparfums in 2025. Several brands from the portfolio of 2017 have since left it, while derma, hair care, men’s and acquired brands have come in. The breadth, from mass to luxury and from skincare to tea, is one which the younger K-beauty challengers described later in this article do not have. The acquired brands COSRX and Tata Harper follow a logic of their own.

For most of its history, Amorepacific built its brands organically. This has changed. In 2021, the company acquired a minority stake in COSRX, a Korean skincare brand founded in 2013 and known for functional products for sensitive skin, and in 2023 it took control. At more than USD 700 million in total, it is the largest acquisition in the history of the company. COSRX generates more than 90 percent of its sales outside Korea and has been built largely through Amazon and social media. In 2022, Amorepacific also acquired the American natural luxury skincare brand Tata Harper. Amorepacific has bought capabilities it did not have: a digitally native brand with a global following, and a position in American clean luxury.

The integration has not been without difficulties. COSRX had to restructure its distribution network in 2025 and only returned to sales growth in the fourth quarter. Buying a fast-growing brand is easier than sustaining its growth inside a large group.

The portfolio is also broadening beyond skincare and makeup. Aestura, the leading derma brand in Korea, and Illiyoon are being rolled out internationally, and the hair care brands Mise-en-Scène, Ryo and Labo-H have become a growth category, including in North America. This is a necessary development. A company which wants to more than triple its sales cannot rely on one or two skincare brands. In September 2026, the company set out derma beauty and hair care as its next global growth pillars towards 2030.

Inner beauty is as much a part of Amorepacific’s brand philosophy as outer beauty. Areas such as nutrition, vitality and cosmeceuticals are part of this belief. It is Amorepacific’s commitment to innovation, the discerning nature of local shoppers and Korea’s strengthening nation brand that provide Amorepacific with an enviable platform for growth on a global stage.

Amorepacific brand philosophy

Amorepacific’s vision, declared in 2006, was to be thought of as the “Asian Beauty Creator” in the minds of customers by providing total care through its beauty and health products. “Beauty” is a word that permeates many levels of the company, including how they create beautiful relationships with business partners and local communities. By expanding this philosophy beyond products, the belief can guide social contributions as well. Executives are determined to make Amorepacific one of the most respected beauty companies in the world.

Country and city of origin have always been indicators of prestige for beauty brands. Similar to how Paris and New York are symbolic capitals of beauty, so much of Amorepacific’s brand equity as they expand worldwide will be due to the country of origin. Aside from synonymous relationship between Japan and technology, it was for a long time difficult for many Western consumers to positively associate an Asian country with a competitive advantage other than low-cost. However, just as Korean and Taiwanese technology brands have largely broken this mould over the last decade, Korean beauty brands have followed suit. Korea’s nation brand has been lifted by the Korean Wave (Hallyu), from K-pop and K-drama to film and food, and “Made in Korea” has become an asset in beauty.

In Korea, skincare is widely regarded as part of overall health, much like exercise and a healthy diet. Many beauty products are sold in Korean pharmacies and health benefits are often the most prominent selling features.

The philosophy and concept of beauty in South Korea attracts women from all over Asia to the country’s beauty industry. Amorepacific has been successful in leveraging and capitalising on this increasing interest towards the country’s beauty industry. Korea’s cosmetics exports passed USD 1 billion for the first time in 2013, according to the Korea Customs Service.

By 2025, Korea’s cosmetics exports had reached USD 11.4 billion. Korea had become the world’s second-largest cosmetics exporter after France, and the United States had become the largest destination ahead of China. K-beauty is no longer an Asian phenomenon dependent on China. It is a global category. In December 2025, the Korean government designated K-beauty a strategic national asset.

The evolution of Western and Asian beauty ideals

As much of Europe and Asia slowly recovered from World War II in the 1950s, Hollywood cinema was becoming global and American shows were a major source of television programming worldwide. With Paris and New York as the capitals of fashion, beauty also came to mean “Western”. However, even as Asian beauty companies looked to France and the United States for inspiration and brand names, differences evolved between East and West. As the Harvard Business School historian Geoffrey Jones has shown, American influence was strong in these decades, but clear differences remained between consumer markets. Skincare and sun protection have traditionally led in Asia, while colour cosmetics have played a larger role in the West.

Kim Seung-hwan, the CEO of Amorepacific Corporation, described the same pattern to the BBC in January 2026: in Japan, Korea and China the interest is in flawless skin, in Europe fragrance is the main category, and in the US make-up is more popular, although interest in youthful-looking skin and sun protection is rising among Western consumers. The language of the industry has changed as well. In 2020, Unilever and L’Oréal removed words such as “whitening” and “fair” from their skincare products.

In the more recent era of globalisation since the 1980s, the rapid economic growth of China, India, and other emerging markets has raised awareness worldwide of the status of non-Western cultures. The impact is evident in the increasing popularity of non-Western cinema such as Bollywood and the “Korean Wave” (Hallyu) starting in the late 1990s. Through locally dubbed Korean soap operas, Korean beauty trends have spread across Asia, from the Philippines to Hong Kong. The end of the mass-industrialisation era has led many brands to rediscover local ingredients and create a strong revival of local traditions and a new confidence that Asians have their own unique ideal of beauty. Authenticity has become a driving factor for successful global brands.

Since then, the direction of influence has partly reversed. Korean concepts such as the multi-step skincare routine, “glass skin”, sheet masks, cushion compacts and the daily use of sunscreen have been adopted by consumers in the US and Europe, helped by social media. Asian beauty ideals have come to influence Western ideals.

Amorepacific brand strategy

Within its home country, Amorepacific has a broad distribution strategy. Korea accounted for more than 70 percent of company sales when this article was first published. By 2025, overseas markets generated around 45 percent of the sales of Amorepacific Corporation. The domestic channel mix has changed just as much. Door-to-door sales and the company’s own road shops have lost ground to online platforms and to multi-brand retailers, led by the health and beauty chain CJ Olive Young, while duty free sales fell sharply after 2017 and during the pandemic. By 2025, CJ Olive Young had become larger than Amorepacific itself by sales, and in May 2026 it opened its first store in the US. For Amorepacific, which once controlled its distribution through its own stores and sales force, this is a fundamental change.

From a brand portfolio management perspective, Amorepacific’s portfolio can be described as a “house of brands”, where a company manufactures and markets a range of brands. A close match of Amorepacific’s brand management philosophy can be seen in how Procter & Gamble manages its brands. In this model of brand portfolio management, each brand competes in a specific segment of a specific category. The markets in which the brand competes can be local, regional or global. Amorepacific’s brands, initially local, are now competing with other personal care and skincare brands at a regional or global level.

Amorepacific has a strong brand management philosophy that believes in developing and establishing individual brands. The company has not shown any signs of deviation from this philosophy over the years. All new brands that have been launched have company branding support and have been developed and nurtured individually.

The fact that the South Korean beauty consumer, and now the broader Asian consumer knows about Amorepacific, helps lend credibility and prestige to any brand coming out of the Amorepacific portfolio. But even then there is no direct use of the company’s name in individual advertising and communication strategies for the brands.

As it positioned for growth in major overseas markets, especially China and South East Asia, Amorepacific took a similar approach. While standard practice in Asia Pacific is to open shops under individual brand names as Amorepacific has done with each of its brands, the strategy in the United States was different. The single-brand store model later became a liability in China, as described below.

In 2017, Amorepacific brands were sold in specialty stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, Holt Renfrew, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom and Sephora. The luxury Sulwhasoo brand  made its American debut at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City. As a soft-entry strategy in to the United States, Amorepacific also launched a Beauty Gallery & Spa in SoHo, New York, to create a high-end footprint in the lucrative market and serve as a creative centre to understand American consumers. The spa blended Amorepacific’s cultural and scientific philosophies, promoting Korea’s unique sensibility with cutting-edge technology. The company also announced that Sulwhasoo would open its first store in Paris at the Galeries Lafayette in September 2017 – a progressive step towards Amorepacific’s long-term vision to expand into France, one of the world’s leading centres of beauty.

The real breakthrough in the United States came through Sephora and through one product. Laneige relaunched in the US with Sephora in 2017 with its Lip Sleeping Mask, which became a viral success on social media and made Laneige the number one lip treatment brand in the country. In 2024, Laneige ranked among the top three skincare brands at Sephora in the US. Innisfree and Sulwhasoo have expanded their presence at Sephora and in department stores, newer brands such as Aestura and Hanyul have been launched in the Americas, and COSRX has built its position through Amazon, where its snail essence became the top-ranked facial serum. In Europe, the growth is led by Laneige, Innisfree and COSRX with the UK as the centre.

There is an important strategic lesson in this. Amorepacific spent years trying to enter the US through luxury department stores, a spa and flagship stores with limited success. The breakthrough came from a hero product at an accessible price, a retail partner with national reach, and consumers who discovered the brand on social media. One hero product opened the door for the brand, and one brand opened the door for the portfolio.

The most unique aspect of their strategy for Asia was the shift toward indirect distribution via duty free channels. As air travel expanded in the 1950s and is now undergoing a second wave of growth driven by Asia, travel retail provides exposure to many new potential customers with less distribution costs. Fittingly for Amorepacific’s luxury brand image, the exclusivity adds some allure while it also makes products more affordable as consumers can buy luxury items tax free. In fact, the 2008 debut of Laneige in travel retail was at the Singapore Changi Airport’s Terminal 3 mega-store. Singapore is a major hub for the region’s luxury shoppers and Laneige has been seeing strong growth in travel retail ever since. The brand quickly went on to secure a listing on-board the in-flight shop on Singapore Airlines.

Amorepacific has credited the boom in duty free business as a key factor in its growth. The dependence on duty free later became a weakness. When Chinese group tourism to South Korea stopped in 2017, and again during the COVID-19 pandemic, duty free sales fell sharply. The company has itself acknowledged that it had expanded with a focus on China and mainly through duty free channels. Travel retail has since been rebuilt on a broader base. In October 2026, Amorepacific reported a presence in more than 230 duty-free shops in 33 countries, with Laneige leading an expansion into airports in Europe and North America, and Latin America as the next target.

Amorepacific’s supply chain and distribution strategy

In terms of supply chain and distribution strategy, Amorepacific appears to be following the cue of fast fashion giants Zara and H&M. By shortening the time that products go from runway to stores to merely weeks, and clearing them for new designs just a few weeks later, the company provides customers with more product variety, pulls them back to stores, and reduces the amount of inventory lying around in-store. Across its  brands, Amorepacific introduces and discontinues products at a bewildering pace and offers plenty of high quality cosmetic products at very competitive prices.

Speed is also the defining feature of the wider Korean beauty industry. Contract manufacturers such as Cosmax and Kolmar Korea develop and produce for hundreds of brands, and enable a new brand to go from concept to shelf in three to six months, compared with one to three years elsewhere. Speed was once a competitive advantage for Amorepacific. It has become available to any entrepreneur with a strong idea and a following on social media.

Sustainability initiatives from Amorepacific

To become a company that customers around the world love and adore, Amorepacific believes it has a role to play in environmentalism, which is an important consideration for Korean consumers. It joined the United Nations Global Compact in 2007 as the first beauty company in Korea, became the first Korean cosmetics company in the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices in 2010, and declared its sustainability goals for 2030 in 2021 under the title “2030 A MORE Beautiful Promise”.

Amorepacific created the Beautiful Fair Trade programme in 2010, a purchasing programme for botanical ingredients built on three principles: safety of ingredients, environmental preservation and contribution to the local community.

The acquisition of Tata Harper in 2022, a pioneer in natural luxury skincare, is a direct investment in natural skincare.

Besides environmental initiatives, Amorepacific is also well-known in the industry for being a good corporate citizen. It is known for its employee-friendly culture, its focus on win-win partnerships with small businesses and its active social giving programmes. An illustration of this can be seen from how it transformed the first floor of its headquarters to include a museum, a library, a daycare centre and other facilities that can be used by its employees and visitors, showing the company’s commitment to society.

Innovation is key to success

South Korean beauty consumers are constantly looking for something new and are willing to pay a premium for it. A prime example was when LG Household & Health Care introduced the world’s luxury chilled cosmetic, Frostine. Since the ingredients required cold storage, LG also introduced a specialised cosmetics fridge called an Icemetic Cellar – the first of its kind. Despite the exorbitant price tag, LG’s overall cosmetic sales recorded 300 percent growth in a single month after launching. Similarly, when Sulwhasoo’s Dahamsul Cream, a super-premium anti-ager with caviar ingredients, debuted on the home shopping channel, it sold more than 2,000 sets within only 40 minutes and was frequently sold out for six consecutive months following its launch.

As a competitive necessity, Amorepacific has invested heavily in research and development throughout its history with the philosophy of “contributing to humanity through beauty and health”. A pioneer in its industry, Amorepacific was the first Korean beauty company to establish a research lab in 1954 not long after the end of the Korean War. Throughout the years, it has stayed true to its roots with an ongoing focus on natural ingredients. In 1966, it was the first company to use ginseng, a common ingredient in Asian traditional medicine, as a base for cosmetic products. In 1979, it was the first in the industry to cultivate a tea garden, an initiative that led to the world’s first green tea cosmetics in 1989.

Since the 1980s, investments have evolved from strictly dermatological research to a total health approach with greater emphasis on health and nutrition. Globally, Amorepacific has been developing networks in new markets through alliances with local universities, medical schools, hospitals and research institutions to gain a better knowledge of local women and climates.

In 2014, it opened a new R&D and factory facility in Shanghai (China) to further capitalise on the rise in demand for beauty products from China and the Asia Pacific region.

In January 2017, it opened a research and innovation laboratory in Singapore in cooperation with the Agency for Science, Technology and Research (A*STAR). This is part of its strategy to further expand its leading position in Southeast Asia by developing research on innovative technologies, skin ageing and unexplored natural ingredients for new product formulas.

In the traditional make-up category, this innovative approach has allowed Amorepacific to break ground in new categories. They were the first to develop a form of “non-flowing liquid”, called “Cushion foundation (compact)”, for sunscreens that is light and easily absorbed after reapplication – a chief complaint for users. Cushion foundations have since been adopted by beauty brands all over the world and have become a symbol of K-beauty innovation. In 2015, Lancôme launched its own cushion foundation, and Amorepacific signed a partnership on the cushion technology with Parfums Christian Dior.

Their prowess as innovators also ensures Amorepacific does not lose ground to competitors by missing out on new fads as they come and go. In 2012, as Korean women increasingly preferred not to touch cosmetic products with their hands, manufacturers introduced diverse high-tech make-up applicators while Amorepacific’s own response, the vibrating make-up sponge, became a sensation as the category exploded. Global research company Nielsen has found that Asian consumers are more likely to try new products than anywhere else in the world meaning brands that consistently do something different can thrive in the region.

In recent years, the innovation agenda has broadened from formulas to technology. Amorepacific has developed a wireless electronic skin together with researchers at MIT, published in the journal Science in 2022, and has named beauty devices, inner beauty and wellness as new growth areas. The tea business Osulloc is one of the fastest-growing parts of the group. Two of the five pillars in the 2035 vision are about innovation: anti-ageing solutions based on biotechnology (Ageless) and the use of AI across research, production, marketing and sales (AI First). Beauty, health and technology are coming together.

Amorepacific brand communication

In general, advertising for Amorepacific’s many brands followed the same strategy as most beauty brands – mainly through television and glossy magazine ads. Following the placement of Laneige and Sulwhasoo in major travel outlets, promotional campaigns targeted groups who most frequently travel to those regions, such as Chinese tour groups via Hong Kong and Singapore. While Amorepacific also participates in a variety of interactive and social communication channels, their most effective communication strategies are via brand ambassadors.

Amorepacific employs several full-time spokespeople for each of its sub-brands cornering all major media from TV and movie actresses to pop stars. Yoona of the pop group Girls’ Generation, for example, was the face of Innisfree for 11 years. This brand endorsement strategy has had a great deal to do with Amorepacific’s brand awareness in the rest of Asia and into the global markets. In the same way American television series once dominated local Asian broadcast television, reinforcing American cultural and beauty ideals, Korean pop culture is dominating Asia today with its soap opera series and movies.

In 2014, Amorepacific products were featured in the hit K-drama “My Love from the Star”. According to the company, sales of the skincare products and lipsticks used by the leading actress rose by 75 percent and 400 percent.

Amorepacific is generally using Korean celebrities and models to promote their brands, and the global appetite for Korean popular culture is enhancing this strategy. But they have to adapt their marketing strategy in China and not fully rely on celebrities. Consumers in China have placed particular weight on scientific and dermatological testing.

The ambassador strategy has since become global. Sulwhasoo, which for some 20 years had a policy of using no models at all, appointed the Korean actress Song Hye-kyo as its first face in 2018, followed by Rosé of the K-pop group Blackpink as global ambassador in 2022 and the British actress Tilda Swinton in 2023, and launched its global campaign at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Laneige appointed the American actress Sydney Sweeney as its US ambassador in 2022 and as its first global ambassador in January 2024, covering around 40 countries. In September 2024, it added Jin of BTS as its first male global ambassador. The brands combine Korean stars with global reach and Western faces with local relevance.

To help cultivate their brand image, Amorepacific have become knowledge curators, owning and operating a museum since 1979, the present Amorepacific Museum of Art, which began as a museum of cosmetics history and tea culture.

Amorepacific, in tune with times, is increasingly using digital media to market its portfolio of brands. When this article was first published, Facebook cited Amorepacific’s use of its platform for brand marketing as a business success case, with 19 brand pages and more than 600,000 fans. The centre of gravity has since moved from Facebook to TikTok, Instagram and YouTube, and in China to Douyin and other local platforms. When Sydney Sweeney was announced as ambassador for Laneige in the US, the brand’s followers on TikTok increased by 227 percent. The Lip Sleeping Mask became a global bestseller because consumers shared it with each other. In beauty, the consumer has become the media. Kim Seung-hwan, the CEO of Amorepacific Corporation, has said that the company is aware that excessive use or misuse of social media can lead to a backlash, and that brands must strike a careful balance in how they use the platforms.

Amorepacific’s global rebalancing: From China to the West

The most important strategic development since this article was first published is the rise, the fall and the rebalancing of Amorepacific’s international business.

The rise was driven by China. Between 2006 and 2016, group sales more than quadrupled in local currency, as Chinese consumers bought Amorepacific’s brands in its stores in China, in duty free shops in Korea and online. As late as 2023, China still accounted for half of the revenue of the company’s Asian operations.

The fall came in stages: the political tensions between China and South Korea from 2016, the COVID-19 pandemic, the decline of duty free and the rise of local Chinese brands. By 2024, group sales were more than one third below the peak in local currency.

The response has been a deliberate strategy which the company calls global rebalancing. Resources have been moved from China to the Americas, Europe, Japan and the rest of Asia, supported by the acquisitions of COSRX and Tata Harper. In 2024, the Americas surpassed Greater China in annual sales for the first time in the history of the group.

The results became visible in 2025. Sales and profit grew strongly, and operating profit reached its highest level since 2019. Overseas markets contributed more operating profit than the home market, with the strongest growth in the Americas and in Europe, and Greater China returned to profit.

Amorepacific was not alone. Its Korean rival LG Household & Health Care and the Japanese group Shiseido had built similar positions in China and in travel retail, and the beauty division of LG and Shiseido both reported losses in 2025 as they restructured. The chief executive of Shiseido has described the company’s reliance on the Chinese market as excessive. The experience is shared by a whole generation of Asian beauty companies.

There are three lessons for other companies with global ambitions:

  • Concentration is a strategic risk: Amorepacific depended on one country, and to a large extent on one channel. Geopolitical events cannot be controlled by any company, however strong its brands are
  • Rebalancing takes time and patient owners: It has taken close to a decade to rebuild the international business, with several years of declining sales and restructuring costs. A company with a long-term controlling owner can carry out such a transformation
  • Brand equity has to be earned again in each market: The strength of Sulwhasoo and Innisfree in China did not transfer automatically to the US or Europe. The success in the West has been built by other brands, other products and other channels

It is also important to keep the recovery in perspective. The operating margin in 2025 was about half the level of 2016, and sales remain well below the peak.

The competition: Global beauty groups and a new generation of K-beauty

Amorepacific competes on two fronts. Above it are the global beauty groups with far greater scale. Around it is a new generation of fast and digital Korean brands.

The global beauty groups: L’Oréal is the world’s largest beauty company with sales of approximately USD 50 billion in 2025, an operating margin above 20 percent, more than twice that of Amorepacific, and more than 4,000 scientists. The Estée Lauder Companies is more than four times the size of Amorepacific. Together with Procter & Gamble, Unilever and the Japanese groups Shiseido, Kao and Kosé, these companies set the standard in research, marketing budgets and relationships with global retailers. Scale matters in beauty.

The global groups are buying K-beauty: The success of Korean beauty has not gone unnoticed. Estée Lauder acquired the Korean company behind Dr. Jart+ in 2019, its first acquisition of an Asia-based beauty brand. L’Oréal acquired the Korean makeup brand 3CE in 2018 and agreed to acquire the dermatological skincare brand Dr.G in December 2024. The global groups can combine Korean innovation with their own distribution and marketing power. Being Korean is no longer a point of difference which Amorepacific has to itself.

Family ownership among the competitors: Several of the strongest competitors are also family-controlled or family-influenced companies. The Bettencourt Meyers family owns around 35 percent of L’Oréal and is its largest shareholder, while the company has been run by executives from outside the family for decades. In 2025, Françoise Bettencourt Meyers left the board after 28 years and passed her role as vice chair to her son. The Lauder family holds more than 80 percent of the voting power in The Estée Lauder Companies, which was founded in 1946, one year after Amorepacific. Chanel is owned by the Wertheimer family, and Clarins and Sisley are family-owned. Long-term family ownership is common in beauty and luxury, where brands are built over decades, as the case of Hermès also illustrates.

The domestic rival: LG Household & Health Care, with its luxury brand The Whoo, has been Amorepacific’s main competitor in Korea for decades. Its beauty division reported an operating loss in 2025. According to analysts cited by WWD, it has been less successful than its rivals in reducing the weight of its Chinese business, and The Whoo accounted for close to half of its beauty sales in 2025.

The new generation of K-beauty: The most significant change has come from a new type of competitor. APR, the company behind the skincare and beauty device brand Medicube, was listed on the Korean stock exchange in February 2024. During 2025, it passed Amorepacific in market capitalisation, and by the end of April 2026 it was valued at around twice the value of Amorepacific Corporation and had become the most valuable beauty company in Asia. In 2025, APR generated some 80 percent of its sales overseas and earned almost the same operating profit as the entire Amorepacific group on one third of the sales. Beauty devices account for more than a quarter of its sales. Brands such as Beauty of Joseon, Anua and Skin1004 have grown internationally through Amazon, TikTok Shop and other digital platforms, often with small teams and with products made by contract manufacturers.

Amorepacific is caught in the middle. It does not have the scale of L’Oréal, and it does not have the speed of the digital-native brands. But it has assets which neither group can easily copy: 80 years of research in Asian botanicals such as ginseng and green tea, its own research and manufacturing, a portfolio from mass to luxury, a brand like Sulwhasoo with real heritage, and a controlling family with a long-term perspective. The strategic task is to combine the depth of an established house with the agility of a young company.

Amorepacific’s family business strategy

Amorepacific is a family business. This is often overlooked in discussions about its brands, but it explains many of the company’s most important strategic decisions. The Suh family has shaped the company from its origins in a small shop in Kaesong to a global beauty group, and the next generation has entered the business.

  • The origins: Yun Dok-jeong, the grandmother of the present chairman, sold camellia hair oil in Kaesong and established a cosmetics shop, Changseong Store, in 1932. The high quality of her oil attracted a loyal clientele
  • First generation: Her son Suh Sung-whan joined the business in 1939 and founded Taepyeongyang (Pacific) in 1945. He opened Korea’s first cosmetics research lab in 1954, introduced door-to-door sales in 1964 and built the leading cosmetics company in the country. By the early 1990s, the group had diversified into around 25 affiliates in areas such as finance, electronics, metals and construction, and even a professional baseball team
  • Second generation: Suh Kyung-bae, the founder’s younger son with an MBA from Cornell University, took over the cosmetics business in 1997 at the age of 34, while his elder brother inherited the finance, construction and other businesses. He led the restructuring of the group, renamed the company Amorepacific in 2002, established the holding company structure in 2006 and led the international expansion. The founder passed away in 2003
  • Third generation: The chairman has two daughters. Suh Min-jung (born 1991) studied at Cornell University and worked at Bain & Company before joining Amorepacific. Suh Ho-jung (born 1995) graduated from Cornell University in 2018 and joined the product development team of the group’s tea subsidiary Osulloc in July 2025

The long-term success of family firms is not a given. Complexities arise when ownership, management and family roles overlap, which is a unique characteristic of family businesses. Some of the defining characteristics which have contributed to Amorepacific’s success across generations include:

Focus on the core business: By the early 1990s, the group was over-diversified and had lost its focus on cosmetics. During the 1990s, and through the Asian financial crisis of 1997, Suh Kyung-bae led a restructuring in which the securities, insurance, fashion and IT businesses and the baseball team were divested, and all resources were concentrated on beauty and health, at a time when many Korean family groups were diversifying. It takes a confident next-generation leader to dismantle parts of what the founder built in order to protect the core.

A clear division between the heirs: The founder had six children and passed the businesses on to his two sons. The elder son received the finance, construction and other businesses, and the younger son the cosmetics business, at the time the smaller part of the group. The clear separation of the businesses between the two brothers meant that each could lead without interference from the other. A clean division is often better than shared control between siblings with different ambitions.

Concentrated ownership and a long-term perspective: Suh Kyung-bae owns around 50 percent of Amorepacific Holdings, the listed holding company (renamed from Amorepacific Group in 2025), which in turn controls Amorepacific Corporation and the other subsidiaries. This concentrated ownership has allowed the family to take a long-term view: to absorb several years of declining sales and restructuring in China, to make its largest acquisition, and to rebalance the entire group towards Western markets. The other side of concentrated ownership is the dependence on one person.

Family ownership with professional management: The chairman sets the vision and the long-term direction, while the operating company is run together with a professional CEO and management team. A clear distinction between the roles as owner, steward and operator will become even more important in the next generation.

Values and stewardship beyond the business: The founding philosophy of contributing to humanity through beauty and health is still used as a guide for decisions. In 2016, Suh Kyung-bae established the Suh Kyungbae Science Foundation to support young scientists in basic life science research, with an endowment of around USD 268 million from his personal assets. The family has also built the Amorepacific Museum of Art, founded in 1979 and located in the group’s headquarters in Seoul.

The succession question at Amorepacific

Suh Kyung-bae was born in 1963. He remains chairman and chief executive, and Amorepacific told The Korea Herald in May 2026 that “nothing has been definitively decided” on succession. The public record shows how ownership and roles in the next generation have developed.

Suh Min-jung, the elder daughter, received her first shares in 2006, and by 2016 she was the second-largest shareholder of the holding company after her father. In 2012, she received minority stakes in three unlisted affiliates, Etude, Espoir and Innisfree. She joined Amorepacific in 2017, starting in manufacturing, and returned in 2019 after an MBA in China. In 2022, her shares in Etude and Espoir were cancelled through capital reductions, and in 2023 she donated half of her Innisfree shares to the Suh Kyungbae Science Foundation. She has been on a leave of absence since July 2023.

Suh Ho-jung, the younger daughter, received common shares and convertible preferred shares in the holding company in May 2023. The preferred shares carry no voting rights and will be converted into common shares in 2029. In early 2026, she received shares in Amorepacific Corporation, which the company explained as a way to fund the gift tax on the earlier transfers. She joined Osulloc in July 2025. Counting the preferred shares, each of the two sisters held between 2 and 3 percent of the holding company in May 2026, and the chairman more than 50 percent.

Korean business media have interpreted these movements as a sign that the question of succession is open. The response of the company is that nothing has been decided.

South Korea’s inheritance and gift taxes are among the highest in the world. The top rate of inheritance tax is 50 percent, and it rises to 60 percent on the shares of the largest shareholder of a company. In 2026, the family behind Samsung completed the payment of an inheritance tax bill of around USD 8 billion, in six instalments over five years. This explains the mechanics: gradual transfers, the use of preferred shares, and sales of shares to pay the tax in instalments. In August 2026, the government proposed stricter valuation rules for inherited and gifted shares from April 2027. But tax planning is only the technical side of succession.

There is also a wider context. Female leaders are still rare at the top of Korea’s large family groups. When Chung Yoo-kyung became chairwoman of the department store company Shinsegae in 2024, it was noted in Korea as a rare case. The family behind Shinsegae divided the group between a brother and a sister, each with a clearly defined business, in the same way as the founder of Amorepacific once divided his group between two sons. With two daughters and no sons, the Suh family will write a new chapter, whichever solution it chooses.

Seen from a family business perspective, the situation at Amorepacific raises four questions which are relevant for business families all over the world:

Ownership succession and leadership succession are two different decisions: A member of the next generation can be a committed and competent owner without being the chief executive. Amorepacific already has professional management in place. The family needs to decide which roles the next generation will take as owners, as stewards on the board and as operators in the business. These roles do not have to be held by the same person. L’Oréal is the clearest example in the industry. The founding family is the largest shareholder, the company has been led by professional executives for decades, and the family exercises its influence through the board, where the next generation took over in 2025. This is a central theme in strategy and succession in family business.

Credibility is earned in real roles: Suh Kyung-bae began his own career at one of the manufacturing plants of the company in the late 1980s, according to the company. Suh Min-jung started in manufacturing in 2017, and Suh Ho-jung started as a junior employee in product development at Osulloc, the tea business which goes back to the founder’s tea gardens on Jeju Island. A company official told The Korea Herald that she “is gaining hands-on experience as an ordinary new employee would”. Starting at entry level, in real roles with real accountability, is a sound principle for any business family.

Structure cannot replace stewardship: Holding companies, share classes and foundations are instruments. They do not by themselves create successors who are willing and able to carry the responsibility. The real work is to develop the next generation as stewards of the family’s legacy, and to protect the relationships in the family. Family unity, harmony and cohesion will matter more for the future of Amorepacific than any difference in shareholdings.

A listed company needs clarity: Minority shareholders, employees and business partners are all affected by the succession. The conversion of the preferred shares in 2029 gives the family a natural window to prepare the next generation, to agree on roles and to communicate the plan.

The wealth of the Suh family is highly concentrated in one listed group. Business families in this position often establish a family office to manage liquidity, to diversify part of the wealth, to organise philanthropy and to prepare the next generation for their responsibilities as owners.

The founder handed over in good time, and his successor had the courage to transform the business. This is the standard the family has set for itself. The next transition will be measured against it.

Future challenges for Amorepacific

Major competition is always a concern for upstart Asian brands entering the world stage. The global beauty groups have aggressively expanded into the Asian market with acquisitions such as L’Oréal’s purchase of Japanese brand Shu Uemura and Yue-Sai (a local brand developed by a famous Chinese television personality), and since 2018 the Korean brands 3CE and Dr.G.

The approach of some of these competitors in Asia has been to achieve success with the lowest common denominators of their products, which can be widely distributed and appeal to the majority of consumers. This is not the space Amorepacific occupies.

However, Western brands that have drawn on their expertise with Japanese skincare pose the biggest threat to Amorepacific’s niche. Procter & Gamble owns the highly successful ultra-premium brand SK-II which originated in Japan.

As described above, the competitive pressure in 2026 comes from two sides: the scale of the global groups and the speed of the new Korean and Chinese brands. The following challenges should be seen in this light.

Rebuild a profitable position in China

China, the world’s second largest economy, was long seen as the ideal market for Amorepacific’s most differentiated product – the super-premium Sulwhasoo brand. China has become one of the two largest beauty markets in the world. It was once the largest market for Amorepacific outside Korea. By 2024, Greater China accounted for around 13 percent of the sales of Amorepacific Corporation.

A strong success factor for its successful penetration of the Chinese market involved paying attention to the tastes of Chinese consumers. Amorepacific has managed to understand the problems that Chinese consumers have with their skin conditions, their colour preferences and beauty routines, and has formulated tailored solutions to them. For example, Chinese consumers are concerned about skin dryness so Amorepacific responded with a sleeping mask that targeted skin dryness. It has also responded to the busy working lifestyles of young Chinese consumers by developing cosmetics that allow consumers to put them on in the quickest and most convenient ways.

Chinese brands like Shanghai Jahwa are building brands that honour past traditions similar to Sulwhasoo. Much can be learned from Shiseido’s approach to China, who launched Aupres, a brand specifically for the Chinese market.

Geographical diversity in China should drive Amorepacific to open more local R&D facilities to better respond to diverse consumer needs. Amorepacific’s success or failure as a premium luxury brand in China may make or break the brand on the global stage. This assessment from the original article proved only half right. China did break the growth story for several years, but it did not break the brand. The success in the US, Europe and Japan has shown that Amorepacific’s brands can grow globally without relying on China.

Country of origin still matters in China, but it has become a double-edged factor. When this article was first published, it noted the long-standing advantage of Japanese brands such as Shiseido, which many Chinese consumers associated with advanced technology and with products developed for Asian skin. Since then, Korean brands have felt the political tensions of 2016 and 2017, Japanese brands have faced headwinds of their own since 2023, and a confident Chinese consumer increasingly buys local. The lesson is that an origin story, however strong, is not a durable advantage in China. Amorepacific’s brands have to win on product, service and local relevance, as their local competitors do.

The beauty and skincare categories in China will increasingly become more and more competitive. Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd, is slowly emerging as a significant competitor with successful brands like Liushen and Herborist. A decade later, local brands dominate. Domestic brands held 57 percent of China’s cosmetics market in 2025, while Korean brands held around 4 percent, behind French, American and Japanese brands. The Chinese company Proya has become the best-selling skincare brand on Alibaba’s Tmall, ahead of L’Oréal, Lancôme and Estée Lauder. The local brands combine fast product cycles with a strong command of e-commerce. Their ambitions no longer stop at the border. Proya, the largest of them, has set the goal of joining the global top ten within ten years and plans to acquire European brands, according to Reuters.

For some years, Amorepacific attracted Chinese women shopping overseas well. A case in point was South Korea’s scenic Jeju Island, which was a hugely popular destination for Chinese tourists due to the allure of the fresh air, volcanic peaks, scenic waterfalls, local dishes like “black pork” but most importantly the duty free shops. Amorepacific was the winner in this domain, with its duty free sales in South Korea to customers from China, Taiwan and Hong Kong up by 184 percent in the first half of 2014, and much of this was attributed to its Jeju Island operations.

The upward trajectory in China did not last. After political tensions between the two countries from 2016, Chinese group tourism to Korea stopped and Korean brands lost ground in China. Chinese consumers moved online, and the single-brand store model lost its relevance. Innisfree alone reduced its number of stores in China from 610 to 280 in 2020, and planned to halve the number again. And Amorepacific’s mass and mid-priced brands were caught between the global luxury brands above and the fast-moving local brands below.

Amorepacific has since restructured its China business by streamlining the offline channels and focusing on its strongest brands, and Greater China returned to operating profit in 2025 on a much smaller sales base. The objective has changed from growth at any cost to a profitable and focused premium position.

Protect the brands against counterfeits

The popularity of Korean cosmetics has been followed by counterfeit products with almost identical logos and appearance, sold online. Best-selling items such as the Iope Air Cushion were among the early targets. The concern for the companies is that fakes contain different ingredients, which may harm consumers and damage the image of the brands.

Amorepacific should continue to fight fake products and ensure that their brands are well protected in trademark and patent terms. The issue has become global. In 2025, cosmetics were the largest category among the counterfeit goods carrying Korean brand names seized by the Korea Customs Service, and Sulwhasoo was the most counterfeited Korean cosmetics brand in 2024. As Korean brands have grown on Amazon, TikTok Shop and other marketplaces, brand protection on third-party platforms has become an important task in the US and Europe as well.

Develop Amorepacific men’s cosmetics

Urban men around the world are increasingly investing in skin care products. While Western Europe is a large male grooming market, the latest boom in male beauty products has been centred in Asia where many men now use foundation with sunscreen, not just traditional aftershave or colognes.

In South Korea, a style known as kkonminam – directly translated as flower handsome man – has been popularised by Korean superstars including singer/actor Rain and actor Lee Byung Hun.

Amorepacific’s Laneige Homme line for men will face a tough fight for the male skincare market – arguably the industry’s most lucrative and untapped. Procter & Gamble is the world’s largest men’s grooming products company with strong distribution throughout Asia, but Amorepacific’s emphasis on technology and innovation could help them appeal to many men if they continue to differentiate themselves as a luxury Asian specialist brand for men.

The global popularity of K-pop has since made skincare and makeup for men far more visible worldwide. The appointment of Jin of BTS as the first male global ambassador for Laneige in 2024 is a sign that the boundary between women’s and men’s skincare is becoming less relevant. The opportunity may lie less in separate product lines for men and more in brands which appeal to all consumers.

Keep up high levels of innovation

Continuous innovation in fast evolving product segments like beauty, cosmetics and personal care is critical for success and for staying competitive. Amorepacific operates in product segments where products can go obsolete very quickly. The hyper-competitive nature of these categories demand continuous innovation from the companies who operate in them.

Skincare and cosmetics are the two primary lines of business for Amorepacific. The company’s innovative “cushion compact”, which is a mixture of coloured foundation, sunscreen and moisturiser that users can apply by touching a foam pad to a spongy, liquid-filled cushion, was one of the world’s first. It was developed by Amorepacific research labs in 2008 and has been a huge innovation success. The company needs to have more such innovations that are huge commercial success to maintain its edge with the likes of L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and regional players like Shiseido. It is also important to understand that innovation is a hugely expensive process and Amorepacific should have an innovation strategy focused on the core business areas.

Innovation is copied and replicated very quickly. Amorepacific and L’Oréal were early innovators in the development of nanotech-based beauty products, using tiny molecular compounds to improve the performance of creams, sunscreens and shampoos, but the rest of the beauty industry caught up aggressively. This foray into technology has even attracted new competition from companies not associated with the cosmetics industry, including Fujifilm and BASF.

As products become more complex, regulation will likely be tightened worldwide and some consumers are concerned about whether the use of stem cells and chemical ingredients are safe. This exemplifies the fact that an organisation can very quickly lose its competitive edge by the sheer pace of innovation replication in markets. Therefore, consumer education is going to have to become a central pillar of Amorepacific’s communication strategy moving forward. In all of Amorepacific’s areas of business, continued innovation should seek to make competition irrelevant. This will require disciplined effort, focused innovation budgets in the areas where Amorepacific can lead and employing the best in terms of skillsets and capabilities.

The question is what will follow the cushion compact and the Lip Sleeping Mask. Amorepacific cannot match the research budgets of L’Oréal, and it cannot launch products as fast as the smallest Korean brands. It needs to concentrate on a few areas where it has a credible right to lead, such as anti-ageing based on ginseng and biotechnology, derma skincare and beauty devices, and turn these into hero products which can travel across markets.

Match the speed of the new K-beauty brands

The new Korean brands develop products in months, test them directly with consumers on social media and scale the winners. Amorepacific’s organisation was built for a different era of department stores, door-to-door sales and its own retail chains. One of the pillars in the 2035 vision, AMORE Spark, is aimed at a more agile organisation and faster product development, and the company carried out a voluntary retirement programme in late 2025. LG Household & Health Care and Shiseido have carried out similar programmes, which shows how widely the established Asian beauty companies are restructuring. In 2026, Amorepacific put a health supplement plant up for sale and LG Household & Health Care its beverage subsidiary, as both groups sharpened their focus on cosmetics.

Kim Seung-hwan, the CEO of Amorepacific Corporation, told the BBC in January 2026 that the company had learned from the COSRX founder and team their approach to formula innovation and how to respond more quickly to consumer needs, and that these lessons had been integrated into the wider organisation. That is the right direction. The acquired brand should influence the parent, not the other way round.

Speed cuts both ways, however. Korea has some 30,000 beauty brands, and government data cited by the BBC show that more than 8,800 had gone out of business by the start of 2026. Building a brand quickly has become easy. Building one that lasts has not.

Develop global expansion strategy

Amorepacific’s corporate strategy has outlined three strategies for growth: Brand singularity (ensuring each of their brands provide a singular differentiating experience), commitment to innovation, and market diversity. In 2017, Amorepacific launched the Innisfree brand in the US market, adding on to existing brands Amorepacific flagship, Sulwhasoo and Laneige. It also entered the Middle East by partnering with Alshaya Group to open the first Etude House store in Dubai, with further plans to expand across to Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, UAE, Qatar, Bahrain and Oman. In its 2035 vision, the company defined its priority markets as Korea, North America, Europe, India and the Middle East, China, and Japan and the rest of Asia Pacific.

As it pursues a strategy of expansion in regional and global markets, Amorepacific needs to change its thinking and operating model to match a global mindset for success. For example, the company’s brand communication strategy remained very regional for many years. All of the brand’s ambassadors were Korean celebrities. This was a successful strategy to target the China consumer, but was not an effective strategy to target consumers in Europe, North America and South America. Elements of Korean culture were little known there at the time. This has changed fundamentally with the global success of K-pop and Korean film and television, and Amorepacific has changed its approach to brand ambassadors as described above. Most of the global beauty giants have ambassadors from all over the world, thereby having a balance of global vs. local appeal. The traffic now runs in both directions. In 2023, L’Oréal’s Lancôme appointed the Korean actress Hoyeon Jung, known worldwide from Squid Game, as a global ambassador, and Korean stars now front Western luxury houses from Louis Vuitton to Chanel and Dior. Korean cool has become a global asset, and Amorepacific no longer owns it alone. The global groups can hire the faces of the Korean Wave as easily as the Korean companies can.

Secondly, a global expansion strategy requires a strategic re-think of the brand portfolio. Western consumers still have markedly different preferences and attitudes towards their beauty and skincare regimes and consequently the products and the brands they prefer. Amorepacific needs to gain an in-depth understanding of these needs and position its brand portfolio accordingly. An understanding of the Western consumers’ needs is also important to give a strategic direction to its innovation road map, which in turn should help in developing new products that have a broader market appeal but still does not lose touch with the Amorepacific brand ethos. Developing and launching brands with global appeal and relevance will help the company in developing coherent brand architecture. A clear brand architecture outlining the relationships between the parent brand and the sub-brands will be crucial for portfolio management.

Finally, expansion into new markets doesn’t start and end by launching and developing new brands. In fact, launching a brand is just the start. To ensure visibility and to generate awareness, effective advertising campaigns need to be coupled with efficient distribution strategies. Distribution, just like in any other retail domain, is the key driver of preference and point-in-time sales in the beauty and cosmetics business. Its distribution strategy in the US was at that time described as “narrow and deep”, with the brand’s products available in select Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Sephora retail stores. This is crucial because at the end, it is operating in the home turf of the legendary Estée Lauder and Procter & Gamble.

The next step in the US is to build scale beyond Laneige and COSRX and to broaden the distribution beyond Sephora and Amazon. North American sales grew more than fivefold between 2021 and 2024, helped by the acquisition of COSRX. Chief executive Kim Seung-hwan told Bloomberg in April 2025 that the company plans to invest in logistics and module manufacturing facilities in the US within three to five years, and that a full production facility, planned on a horizon of five to ten years, may be brought forward. Trade policy has become a new risk. In August 2025, the US introduced a tariff of 15 percent on imports from South Korea and ended the duty-free treatment of small parcels. In February 2026, the US Supreme Court ruled the tariff unlawful, and a global tariff of 10 percent under a different law took its place until July 2026, when it was succeeded in turn by a combined rate of 12.5 percent on Korean goods. The conditions for Korean exporters changed three times within a year. Competition is also increasing, as CJ Olive Young brings a wide range of Korean brands to its own stores in the US. Europe, Japan, India and the Middle East are the next growth regions. In Japan, Amorepacific has grown through online platforms such as Qoo10 and has taken its makeup brand Hera into department stores. In India, where the company has worked with the beauty retailer Nykaa for a decade, Mamonde became its fifth brand in August 2026. Latin America is the next frontier. At a trade exhibition in Mexico City in September 2026, Kim said the company aims for more than tenfold growth in Mexico within five years, although Mexico raised its import duties in 2026 on goods from countries without a free trade agreement, Korea among them. The 2035 target means that the group has to more than triple its sales in ten years, an annual growth of more than 12 percent. This will require both organic growth and further acquisitions.

Create global leadership, governance and succession

An effective global strategy can only be implemented by having a visionary senior management. As Amorepacific expands and takes a competitive stance against regional and global players, it needs to have a senior management group that represents diverse cultures, has a mix of strategic experience across multiple sectors, has a keen understanding and appreciation of global trends and has an in-depth understanding of the external and internal forces that will shape the future of the organisation.

The success of its perfume brand Lolita Lempicka in France and of Amorepacific skin care in the United States was attributed to the ability to correctly predict future trends and be ready for the opportunities that will be presented. These success strategies should become the standard operating model for Amorepacific going forward. For this to happen, it is critical that the company has the right set of people in senior management at both local and global levels.

With close to half of its sales coming from outside Korea, and a target of 70 percent, Amorepacific is becoming a global company with Korean roots. Its leadership, its board and its talent pipeline have to reflect this. At the annual general meeting in March 2026, CEO Kim Seung-hwan named global expansion and AI-driven management as the priorities of the company. At the same time, the group is approaching a generational transition in the founding family. A strong board with independent and international members, a professional management team and a well-prepared next generation of owners need to work together. The planning of the succession cannot be left to the last moment.

Conclusion: Amorepacific has tremendous potential for global growth

Overall, Amorepacific is well poised for growth as it expands into markets outside China and Korea. To sustain this growth and to remain competitive in the segments it operates in, the company needs to combine an aggressive innovation driven marketing model with a global mindset and deep consumer understanding. Going beyond the shores of its home country will be challenging for Amorepacific, but with its credentials and past successes in foreign markets, it can be reasonably assumed that the company has the right compass to map a course through new, uncharted waters.

The last decade has tested this compass. Amorepacific reached the top ten of the world’s beauty companies, lost more than one third of its sales as its China business declined, and has rebuilt itself as a more balanced global company. Few companies get the opportunity to go global twice. Amorepacific has used it well.

The next decade will be decided by three things: whether the company can compete against the scale of L’Oréal and Estée Lauder and the speed of the new K-beauty brands at the same time, whether it can build more global brands after Laneige, and whether the Suh family prepares the next generation of owners and leaders with clarity and in good time. The company’s future looks promising in the hands of a committed family with a long-term perspective, but the legacy of 80 years has to be earned again by every generation.

 

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About the author: Martin Roll – Global Family Business & Family Office Expert

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